A Hunger for Willunga – Necia Wilden

By 08/08/2009Articles

“Nice surprise No 1: Something odd happens on the way to the loo at the Victory Hotel, high above Sellicks Beach in South Australia. No, it’s not the detour to the wine cellar, though you can call me a patronising eastern-states type for being dazzled to see, in a country pub, the sort of vast, international, rare-vintage collection I normally only ever read about in Wine Spectator magazine. But that’s less odd than the sight of one of the other rooms. The one full of poker machines. The first room of poker machines I’ve ever seen that doesn’t have anybody in it. Not one, lonely, glazed-eye gambler. It is 6.30pm on a Saturday and the large and modern dining room is in happy uproar, the crowds spilling out on to the deck, the staff ferrying plates of fashionable food behind them. For anyone who feels even slightly ambivalent about the cross-country march of the one-armed bandits, this is an intoxicating sight. It looks even more intoxicating after a glass of Billecart-Salmon at $14 a pop.”

Necia Wilden – The Australian, 8 Aug 2009